Cloud Forest

Tuesday, May 29

An exciting day: this is my older son's 21st birthday! I miss him and wish he was here with me in Costa Rica.

We assemble for breakfast at Monteverde Lodge. Hearty, for a day of hiking ahead. We load into the van and drive the short distance to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. We get out of the van and move towards the trailhead: (Yes, I know I used this photo already, but this is actually where and when it was taken.)

I'm going to insert a series of snapshots taken as we hiked up to the Continental Divide:







We climbed higher and higher into the clouds. They obscured our view to the forest far below:
Along the way, I plucked Impatiens:
Impatiens are an invasive species here, escaped from ornamental cultivation.
But there are many pretty native plants:

Eventually we reached our destination, the continental divide and were happy for that:
(Note the Gunnera on the far right.)
It was too cloudy (remember, it is called the cloud forest) to see far either East or West but it was still dramatic to be there. All that theory about adiabatic processes etc. all come together when you are feeling it.

This is probably the clearest view we had, in this case to the East:
And of course, this being a seminar, we had a lecture:
We hiked back down:
and looked for birds as we went:
We heard a Quetzal but did not see one. We did see an Emerald Toucanet up close, but it was too dark for my limited photographic skills.
We went into a classroom for a lecture on management of the reserve. The highlight for me was the collection of video clips from their Cuddeback game cameras of mammals such as Puma, ocelot, peccary and brocket deer. Very, very impressive.
There has been all manner of research at this site stretching back decades:

We returned to the van, tired but very excited.
Lunch is at a fine local restaurant:
We also had long-reaching discussions about educational travel, science, climate change, water resource management and village politics. Fascinating.
The garden out front was also interesting. I had never seen big-leaf Hydrangea in the tropics!
We visited a greenhouse that produces native plants as alternatives:
but we were all getting tired by this point. We listened to a lecture on philanthropy in the enormous Eternal Children's Forest and how donations from around the world support a conservation project in which ecotourism places a comparatively small part. The discussion afterward ranged into ranger programs to control illegal logging and wildlife poaching, watershed management, hydroelectric development on both large and small scales and climate change. If anyone did not already know, "sustainability" covers a broad range of topics. Everyone had something to contribute--and much to learn.
Dinner back at the lodge. Raining heavily. Another big day tomorrow so early to bed for all.

Up to Monteverde

Monday, May 28

Alarms woke me again in my room in Hotel 1915. I was still sleepy. I showered and started packing until 7 am, when I went to the lobby for breakfast. Coffee and the tipico (eggs, rice, beans, fried plantain, fruit) again. We were a larger group as more of my fellow seminarians had arrived: we were now 7, plus the three seminar staff. The ten of us ate together and enjoyed more time to get to know each other.

We loaded into two large diesel Toyota tourist vans at 8 am, one for us and one for our luggage. Drove out of town and onto the very modern turnpike heading north. Beatiful scenery of hills where cattle grazed. Descended down to sea level by the Gulf of Nicoya and observed large container ships at anchor in the sea. We eventually left the turnpike for the famous Pan-American highway to the small town of Sardinal. From there we ascended up into the mountains on switch-back roads. Part of the road was unpaved but well-graded gravel. Nice. However, it occurred to me as we reached the mountain town of Santa Elena that THAT was the "bad road" the tourist guide books had all warned of. Note to tour guide book writers: do NOT go to Belize, ever. That road would be one of the best in Belize. The ornithologist along had just flown down from Nicaragua and concurred: a "bad road" in Costa Rica would be an excellent road north of the border.

We wound through the curving streets of Santa Elena to our hotel for the week, the Monteverde Lodge. Unloading from vans, happy to have arrived:

And the front of the hotel:

And my room: (OK, I admit. This is NOT what it looked like when I checked in. I am inserting photos from later in the week here to tell a story.)

View out the room's window:

We then loaded back into a van and drove into town for lunch. I ordered the casado con pescado and enjoyed fried fish with rice, beans and salad. Filling! Coffee to drink, of course. (Note a pattern?)

After lunch we went to the classroom building where we watched a fascinating video documentary, "Cracking the Golden Egg" produced in 2009 by the folks at CREST, Center for Responsible Tourism (http://www.responsibletravel.org/home/index.html). Apparently they have distanced themselves from it; I cannot find it on YouTube. (If you find it online, please comment with a link). The video was pretty hard-hitting on environmental and social issues. I'll try to go to the area of the Guanacaste district on the Pacific coast discussed in the video next week to see for myself, on the ground, the issues raised by the video.

We continued our discussion of the responsibilities (if any) of tourists to the communities they visit. Very interesting conversation ensued; some strong but respectful opinions were expressed by the CIEE IFDS Sustainability seminar participants and the Costa Ricans present. It is going to be a good week.

We return to Monteverde Lodge for dinner. It is just us seven seminarians we continue getting to know each other over a fine meal. We are all from medium-sized Universities, but from across the U.S. Three are from the East coast, myself and another from Oklahoma, and three from Oregon.

Alajuela Day

Sunday, May 27

Woke up to my alarms in a comfortable bed at the Hotel 1915 in Alajuela, Costa Rica. I had been unable to get a WiFi connection last night when I checked in but it was working now so I let Rhea, and my FB friends, know that I had arrived safely.

I was very sleepy. This was to continue all day, but I didn't know that. I pulled on some clothes without showering first and ventured out into the lobby in search of coffee. I found three strangers sitting in the sun-filled lobby. I sat down and learned their names and drank coffee, strong and back and tasty. Then another cup and some water before ordering breakfast tipico (eggs, rice, beans, cheese, fruit).

After breakfast, I showered and set out with my new friends to explore Alajuela. Street view of the Hotel 1915. I had arrived at night and so not really seen it:

We walked a block to the Central Plaza. Filled with tall trees (Mango?) and many people:

There was even a club of Harley enthusiasts:

We walked to the Cathedral and peered in at mass, in progress. We posed for a touristy photo out front: (No, we are not that fat. Somehow the blog is stretching the image.)

We left the cathedral and continued our stroll through town, admiring the scene:

The main event in Alajuela was a big football match with Uruguay. Local fans were out in force:

They were pouring into the local stadium:

We instead found a local amateur league football game:

which we watched instead:

We found a nice restaurant for lunch:

and of course ordered coffee:

Despite this, I was tired. I left the three amigos and walked back to the Hotel. I took a nap until 4 pm, when our first lecture began. We did introductions in the lobby while drinking coffee and nibbling pastries. Our first lecture was on the history of Monteverde: preservation and ecotourism development.

Dinner was a lovely buffet at 7 pm. We chatted after, then went to bed. No internet. Slept well.

Belmopan to San Jose: two capitals in one day

Saturday, May 26

Woke up late, for me, at the Hibiscus Hotel. Make a cup of the instant coffee in the room. Watch TV and generally relax. I have a busy day ahead of me: I am waking up in the capital of one Central American nation of going to bed in another.

Walked over to the market. Ate breakfast of ham, eggs, beans and flour tortillas with coffee and watermelon juice. After that, I walk around the market area. Not shopping--just for relaxing fun.

I finish packing and load the truck. Chat in the parking lot with an acquaintance. He had been at the fundraiser last night but was too busy to talk then.

Drive the truck to the Shell station and fill up with diesel. Comes to BZ$161 (US$80.50) for about 15 gallons. I figure that is decent fuel usage for my week with the Ford.

I then drive it to the nearby Guanacaste National Park. I must have driven past it 100 times since 1998 but never once stopped. I park and go to the visitor's center. I am the only visitor. The kind attendant makes small talk and takes my BZ$5 admission. I walk down to the Roaring Creek and take some snapshots:

Notice that truck is an oil tanker transporting crude oil from Spanish Lookout to Independence. Let's hope it doesn't crash going over any of the bridges en route. Those bridges are old and were not designed with this load in mind.

Here, Roaring Creek flows into the Belize River. The creek is clear as it flows mainly out of protected lands. The Belize river carries a heavy load of sediment washed off of cleared land. That sediment will be deposited on the coral reefs I was diving on just one week earlier. It is all connected.

This snapshot of the stairs leading down to the river bank for swimmers shows two things: 1), that it has rained a lot already; 2) the difference in water clarity between the creek (foreground) and river (background). Which would you rather swim in?

I also take snapshots of the flora:

and fauna, in this case, leaf-cutter ants (Atta sp.):

All in all, a very nice little park with a great location. My guess is that 90% of the visitors to Belize would be happy with a "jungle walk" at Guanacaste and not need a big wilderness with large animals they are unlikely to see.

From Guanacaste NP, I continue east along the Western highway. I stop in at Monkey Bay. Been a long time: since 2000. I meet a couple workers I vaguely remember. The wife gives me a tour. I'll spare you most of the photos, but here are a few. The main building as of 2000 in now one of several large structures:

Buses for the University groups they arrange trips for: Their famous outhouse system is still there:

but now alongside a modern lavatory facility:

I thank my hostess for the tour and continue east. At Hattieville, I go north on the Burrell Boom road to the Northern highway, where I turn right (south) towards Ladyville. I arrive near the airport early for my flight, so I got past the airport to the next major street and turn left. I go down to the waterfront and eat lunch at the Oar House restaurant, on a dock. Grouper! It is delicious. I also use the WiFi to check in my Rhea on Facebook.

Back to the airport, where I return my Ford:

I drag my luggage across the parking lot and inside. There is no line at TACA so check-in is fast. I go upstairs to the viewing deck and watch for my plane to arrive from San Salvador:

I go to security and discover I forgot to complete my departure record form. Oops. I step aside and do that in a minute. No problem, but I wish I had simply done it on my incoming plane. The security system is not crowded, as the American and United planes had just left. Walked around in the departure lounge until time to board.

Boarded. The TACA jet was a new A320. Very comfortable. We take off and fly south down the coast of Belize and over Honduras as the sun sets. I can see a bit of El Salvador from the air. It is seemingly all agricultural land: no forests in my lie of view. San Salvador airport is fine, but dated in style and bit dingy. Many duty free shops but nothing in interest to me, except: free WiFi. I do a bit of IMing with my wife, which is fun.

Boarded. Flight to San Jose is another A320, but a bit older. Nearly full, unlike the jet down from Belize (less than half). Excellent meal on the short (~1 hour) hop. Land just fine. Deplane. I get to the immigration line first. The man tries Spanish first, but when he gets no where resorts to excellent English. I get my checked bag and take it to customs, which consists of running all luggage (checked and carried) through a canner. No problems. Walk outside and am greeted by taxi coordinators. I let them know which hotel (Hotel 1915). The cab is a new red Toyota Corolla with a diesel motor. Very nice car.

We leave the airport on a modern expressway and pass a Burger King, KFC and WalMart right away. Definitely not in Belize anymore! The hotel is close. The fare is US$5; I give him 7 ones. Hotel staff is expecting me. Check in easy. Handsome, historic "boutique" hotel. I am tired and so fall asleep quickly in Costa Rica.

Wild Night Out

Friday, May 25

Woke up at Hidden Valley Inn. I checked my work email account for the first time all week and had a LOT of urgent messages by people wanting me to stop by their office to sign something etc. Replying to those took a while. I attached some of the photos I've blogged here so people know that I really was out of pocket at the moment.

Ate breakfast, then packed up. Checked out of my lovely cottage

and paid my bill at the front desk. They asked when I would be coming back and I let them know as soon as I could. But likely not for a few months.

Spent the rest of the morning reviewing data with my colleague:

Our research may look exciting, but 99% of it is tedious and painstaking. I tend not to blog about that, but it constitute the vast majority of time spent.

I then said my goodbyes and drove down the road. Checked out at Mai Gate and chatted with the gate-keeper. Then continued on to Moonracer. Had a nice visit with them and ate a bowl of delicious soup.

What would a visit to Belize be without taking in the awe and wonder of a classic Maya ruin? Pacbitun was on my way, and I had not been there in a few years. It is not marked but I know the way down a narrow dirt road to the central plaza.

I took a few snapshots, of the main pyramid:

And of a broken stelae:

Some work was in progress to prepare Pacbitun for the 2012 celebration. Vegetation was being cleared and burned in a fire. However, I saw flames and smoke but no people or tools at the site.

I also too a short video. It basically consists of me turning 360o in the main plaza to show the structures on each side:

From Pacbitun, I continued on through the village of San Antonio. Down through Christo Rey village to Santa Elena. Turned right onto the Western highway. Drove through Central Farm and continued east. Getting low on fuel, but continued to Belmopan. Parked at the Hibiscus Hotel

My room (#6) was very nice. King-sized bed, and a giant LCD television on the wall. I took a shower and headed up to Corkers for a light dinner of breaded and fried fish fingers. Quite tasty, and a terrific texture to the batter. Drank some cokes, then walked around Belmopan a bit. I have really only been there to change buses and not seen it by foot.

After dark, I walk over to the British High Commission. I go to the wrong compound first but they politely direct me to another facility up a side street near the back of the U.S. embassy. I show my ticket to the guards, who open the tall steel gate for me to enter. Walk across the tennis court to the clubhouse by the pool. This is a nice place!

There are a lot of people, chatting and bidding on the silent auction items. My donation was of, you guessed it, a "jaguar camera." It is getting some interest.

Some people drink at the bar:

But most listen to the speeches about wildlife conservation:

A highlight for me was talking to people who had been guests at Hidden Valley Inn a few days previously and seen the "wildlife cameras" I had placed in January. I told them I had photos of their legs.

By then end of the night, my "jaguar camera" raised a lot of money, I won a framed painting of a jaguar in the silent auction, and got to meet in person some people I had known only online. One of them kindly offered to drive me back to my hotel room:

but he could not get his car started and so we walked the few blocks back to the Hibiscus Hotel. I ended up driving him home. Good times, but I was out way past my bedtime.